Lily of the Valley Day
Carillon Pour un Ange Eau de Parfum
EXCLUSIVE interview with Andy Tauer
I love the French tradition of May Day because it all started on May 1, 1561 when King Charles IX of France was given a bunch of lily of the valley flowers as a token of luck and prosperity for the coming year. So every year on May 1st, Lily of the Valley Day has been honored and treasured with the sure sign that winter is officially over and spring has sprung.
Recently, the world celebrated the Royal Wedding of William & Catherine. It was reported that Catherine’s bouquet was covered with muguets (lily of the valley) and the perfume she wore on her wedding day featured the lily of the valley fragrant note.
There is another fragrance that has set the tone long before the announcement of the Royal Wedding. It has been a love of the lily of valley flower every since he become a perfumer.
Mr. Tauer took the essence of the lily of the valley flower and molded it into a vibrant and “forest treasure” that breaths freshness into the most exquisite form of a perfume.
CARILLON pour un ange features…
TOP NOTES: rose, ylang ylang, lilac, green lily of the valley accordHEART NOTES: jasmine, leather
BASE NOTES: ambergris, moss and woods
The making of CARILLON pour un ange overwhelmed me and its precious scent sets the highest standards of perfumery that last all day.So, I wanted to learn more about it. I had the honor and privilege of asking Mr. Tauer questions about the intricate details of the making of CARILLON pour un ange.
THE INTERVIEW
Andy, I read that it is difficult to get a large portion of concentration from the lily of the valley flower. To smell the beautiful essence, one must wait until winter is over. How did you manage to create, CARILLON pour un ange?
Indeed, there is nothing like a “natural”, botanical extract of Lily of the valley. Thus, all Lily of the valley perfumes are based on compositions, using manmade molecules and –provided we are talking about high end perfumes- natural extracts. There exist pre-made bases that you can buy, too. With the exception of a few bases that I use to replace materials of animalic origin: I do not use bases provided by that industry. On one hand, I consider it an intellectual and a creative challenge to make my own compositions from scratch. And on the other hand: if you work with bases provided by the industry, you become dependent and you risk coming up with perfumes that smell like others.
My challenge when creating CARILLON pour un ange were the same that I face with every composition: Trying to find the right color, shape, light in order to reach a fragrant picture that reflects what I have in my mind. It is very difficult to translate this inner image and to communicate it in words is not any easier. Let me share two ways to approach this: CARRILLON pour un ange is like a day in May, I leave the house with my father, passing by the green lush gardens where Lilac is blooming. We enter the woods, with the bark of the trees still wet and cool from a gentle spring rain over night. We search for Lily of the valley. We kneel down; smell the wet musky earth, the ambra fragrance from the fir tree branches in the sun. I pick the Lily of the valley and bring it home to my mom. She is waiting for me and my father. This is peace.
My working title for CARILLON pour un ange was actually Gabriel: Gabriel like the arch angel. There is a wonderful song, called Gabriel by Lamb. It is a sad song, in a sense, and I listened to it many times when creating Carillon. There, you find the lines:
“I can fly
But I want his wings
I can shine even in the darkness
But I crave the light that he brings (…)”
Me too, I can fly, but I want and need the wings of my angel.
The lily of the valley flower is considered for spring and summer. How does a person like myself who loves this flower cope with wearing CARILLON pour un ange in the fall and winter months?
I know that perfume lovers like to categorize their fragrances. And I know the feeling in spring, when the sun brings back the colors of life and we all reach out for flowers and citrus. But, I am convinced that there can be spring every time and anywhere. Thus, do not worry about wearing Lily of the valley or other spring flowers in autumn. Actually, CARILLON pour un ange is much more than just Lily of the valley. It is spring blossoms, wet forest earth, a hint of jasmine and leather and the later work wonderful in cool winter nights. And who would not like to get a glimpse of an early spring on a grey November day?
Andy, you mention on your website and I am paraphrasing that building a fragrance with the lily of the valley flower has always been important to you. Why is composing CARILLON pour un ange is important to have in your collection?
My mother was very much in love with Diorissimo, composed by Edmond Roudnitska who is a perfumer whom I admire deeply. Thus, a Lily of the valley centered fragrance was always on my to-do list. Unfortunately, It was too late for my mother: She left this world before I finished Carillon pour un ange. I hope that she is an angel now watching us.
Lastly, Andy you are an award winner Master Perfumer! What would you say makes a great perfume? What would you say to a student who wants to make a career in perfumery?
Thank you for this question. I get a lot of e-mails from perfume lovers asking me for advice how to make a career in perfumery. I am trying to make a living by selling artisanal perfumes (which is not easy): but I am not sure whether I am the right guy to ask. Quite often, I answer that I cannot give a lot of advice as I never studied perfumery in school and that I am convinced that there is no reason to visit a perfumery school. If you wish to make a living from perfumery: Be patient and be warned. The road to success is narrow and rough. Thus, my advice usually is: Train your nose by smelling the classics, get to know your naturals, and build your patience. It will take years of smelling, experimenting, and failing until you come up with creations that speak and bloom. And do not expect a short cut, like asking a perfumer for advice.
And to answer your last question; a great perfume is a composition that is balanced, with an inner harmony, but with character. Present, with sillage, but not loud. A perfume shines from the inside and it develops on its wearer. Edmond Roudnitska, in his booklet “LE PARFUM” (of the series Que sais-je), also spoke about a “choc sensorial”; for me this means: A great perfume will touch us when we smell it the first time. It will evoke a reaction and it will invite us to a journey, through fragrant lands, and we will happily join.
Andy is has been truly an honor to speak with you. I've learned so much in just a short amount of time.
Thank you and I wish you continued success with Tauer Perfumes.
Thank you, Felicia.
PURCHASE: tauerperfumes.com luckyscent.com
INFORMATION: $135.70USD 1.0 FL OZ at tauerperfumes.com
$85.00 USD Atomizer spray at luckyscent.com
NOTE: Andy Tauer received the 2011 FIFI AWARD UK for ORANGE STAR launched in 2010 for Best New Independent Niche Fragrance.
PHOTO CREDITS: tauerperfumes.com, lst-art-gallery.com, perfumevault.blogspot.com
F.H.
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