Editor's Note

Posted by Felicia M Hazzard 23 November, 2010 0 comments

   This exciting issue of Fragrance Belles Lettres:The Magazine is going throw an update look. It is still in the development stages and the completion should take place shortly so PLEASE EXCUSE THE LOOK...IT IS UNDER CONSTRUCTION. 
   On November 2, 1755 a baby girl was born on the Feast of All Souls Day. Her name was Maria Antonia Josepha Johanna as the Archduchess of Austria. Later in life she was chosen to move to France to marry Louis XVI. The Archduchess of Austria married at the age of 14 and became the Queen of France and forever known as Queen Marie Antoinette.

   Queen Marie Antoinette was known for her extravagant taste and her love of perfume. She had a personal perfumer (whom I will introduce) who created scents exclusively for the Queen.
   One of her favorite scents is orange flower/orange blossom. An extravagant fragrance was created for the Queen which became her signature scent and unfortunately became the scent that got her in trouble during the French Revolution.
    Queen Antoinette's personal perfumer and signature scent will be examined in this issue along with the 21st century interpretation of it by Master Perfumer, Francis Kurkdijan.

   It gives me great pleasure to present an exclusive interview with two perfumers who have created fragrances in 2010 and that is Ralf Schwieger, Master Perfumer at Atelier Cologne with Orange Sanguine and Marlene Stang, Senior Perfumer at Sarah Horowitz Parfums with Bel Orage.

  Lastly, a wonderful selection of new and older fragrances that represent the citrus flavor of orange.
  So this issue is full of colorful zestful and historical facts that represents the continuation of the Fall season.

  Felicia M. Hazzard
 


Orange Sanguine by Ralf Schwieger

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     Orange Sanguine Cologne Absolue introduced in 2010 is a vibrant and zesty fragrance that caters to the orange scent in several forms. The word sanguis is Latin from which English gets sanguine. The word sanguine means confidently optimistic and cheerful. The delicious fragrance of Orange Sanguine reminds me of a riped orange just picked from the tree and dripping with overflowing juices. This scent would not have been possible if it wasn't for Master Perfumer, Ralf Schwieger of MANE USA, the worldwide leader in fragrances and flavor design.

    Mr. Schwieger collaborated with owners, Sylvie Ganter & Christophe Cervasel of Atelier Cologne and the results are fruitful, fresh and elegant.

    Born in Germany, Mr. Schwieger studied chemistry but found his passion for fragrance. He studied at a school in Grasse (France) which is the world capital of perfumery. His expertise and exquisite skills  obviously got noticed by Ganter & Cervasel due to other successful fragrances created by Mr. Schwieger.

    I was honored with a Question & Answer session with Mr. Schwieger on how he approaches the creation of a new fragrance and what it took to make Orange Sanguine Cologne Absolue.


1. I noticed that especially this year, there have been an abundant of new fragrance releases that are showcasing orange notes such as orange blossom, sweet blood orange, neroli, etc., why do you think this is? Or maybe a significant reason in the world of perfumery?


                       








I did not notice that, but working with my own fragrances each day I am sometimes not aware of what is going on outside... Orange blossom (or ‘Neroli’) has many times been used in perfumery as well as a call out but I guess you are talking of the citrus peel notes. I guess Orange oil as an ingredient has been kept in the shadow because it is looked as a little to common. Everybody knows oranges and marketers are often trying to lure with the exotic… like ‘shimmering silver starfruit’ or something silly like that…



But there are citrus fruits which are less common like ‘yuzu’ or ‘blood orange’ - those offer a variety of twists on the well known lemon/orange/grapefruit and lime theme.







Anyway, the Orange tree delivers so many raw materials for us, I could imagine so many different variations! ….you can eat the fruit or drink the juice but in perfumery we use the peel to (manually) extract the essential oil, we have essential oils of the leaves (‘petitgrain oil’) and both essential oil (‘neroli’) and absolutes (solvent extractions) of orange blossoms!









2. Ralf, as a Master Perfumer are you told what kind of scent to create or do you collaborate with Atelier Cologne founders Sylvie Ganter & Christophe Cervasel on what fragrance should be created for a creative reason?







Sylvie and Christophe are the artistic directors of the brand; they choose the theme but are very open to the suggestions by the perfumer. They gave very helpful comments during the development of the scents and I enjoyed real creative freedom.







3. Ralf, what are your favorite scents to create in terms of citrus, floral, spicy, etc., and why?







I myself love citrus notes - I used to wear colognes like ‘Eau d’Hadrien by Annick Goutal. They provide freshness and can help you to achieve that explosive first impression when you sniff at a fragrance… I love lemon, lime, blood oranges, grapefruit… I like them rather tart and am eager to express that sensation in a fragrance.



I like ‘textural’ florals such as mimosa: the touch is almost as important as the scent, the little yellow flower balls tinkling your nose when you approach to smell them, that’s a sensation I would like to conjure. Or a rose with these almost plasticized petals. And then there are those power flowers like lilies, that’s a challenge!



Spices have very singular aspects which are not easy to tame but can give great identity to a fragrance. Think of Eau d’Herm├Ęs by Roudnitska, a master piece.









4. Orange Sanguine is an incredible zesty fragrance with earthy notes. How would you explain to someone who is new to fragrance if Orange Sanguine is considered an indie perfume, blended or something else?







For ‘Orange Sanguine’ I tried to capture both the peel notes and the juicy notes of the fruit, I believe it is this combination of both aspects which lets you experience the whole sensation of crushing a blood orange: peel bursting and that juicy red flesh dripping out… have you seen the intro of DEXTER on television? A little bit like that… slightly wicked.



Atelier Cologne is a new brand with a real identity (look at those mood boards), they started kind of small but have a solid distribution in the US and are going to launch in Europe next year. You might call them niche or indie but most important: the quality of the fragrance is prime!

 Orange Sanguine Cologne Spray Absolue consist of Top Notes: blood orange, bitter orange Heart Notes: jasmine, geranium from South Africa Base Notes: amber woods, tonka beans, sandalwood

 Purchase: ateliercologne.com, luckyscent.com
                200ml/6.7 fl oz $145.00



 
 







  
     In 2010 there have been so many introductions of fragrances with the note of orange. These new fragrances in 2010 and some older fragrances are oozing with orange appeal.
    Orange scents are zestful and full of energy. Brace yourself with consumptions of orange blossom, bitter orange, neroli, blood orange and other tasteful and mouth watering essence of the orange.


  Absolue Pour le Matin by Maison Francis Kurkdijian (2010)


                                                                                                             

  bergamot, Sicilian lemon, Moroccan white thyme, Tunisian neroli, iris,  amber, violet

  Eau de Cartier Essence d'Orange by Cartier (2010)
  bergamot, oranges, violets, patchouli, virginia cedar

  Fleur Cherie' by L'Occitane en Provence (2010)
  citruses, green notes, cassis, neroli, jasmine, African orange flower, musk, patchouli, virginia cedar

  Fleur d' Oranger 27 by Le Labo (2006)
  orange blossom, musk, petit grain, bergamot, lemon

  Fleur d'Oranger by Serge Lutens (2003)
  orange blossom,white flowers, jasmine, tuberose, white rose, floral musk, hibiscus, cumin, nutmeg

  Fruits de Noel Orange & Amande by Yves Rocher (2010)
  orange, mandarin, bergamot, grapefruit, almond essential oils

  Fruits de Noel Orange & Chocolat by Yves Rocher (2010)
  essences of petit grain, orange, cocoa extract

  Ipo by Saffron James (2010)
  violet, Moroccan rose, lemongrass, orange blossom, gardenia from Tahiti

  Juliet by Juliet Stewart (2010)
  bergamot, amalfi lemon, orange, basil, jasmine, vanille, amber, woodsy notes

  Orange Blossom by Penhaligon's (2010)
  neroli, bergamot, amalfi lemon, orange, pink pepper, violet leaf, jasmine, tuberose, cardamom, rose, orchid, peach blossom, musk, sandalwood, virginia cedar, vanille

  Oranges and Lemons Say The Bells of St. Clements by Heeley (2010)
  oranges, lemons, bergamot, mandarin, neroli, petit grain, Earl Grey Tea, Ylang Ylang, vetiver

  Orange Star 09 Eau de Parfum by Tauer Parfums (2010)
  mandarin, clemetine, orange blossom, lemongrass, ambergris, tonka beans

  Pluie de Petales de Fleurs d'Oranger by Cinq Mondes (Body Mist)
  petit grain, neroli, bitter orange, orange extracts

  Rubj Eau de Parfum by Vero Profumo (2010)
  bergamot, mandarin orange, passionfruit, African Orange Flower, tuberose, basil, virginia cedar, oak, musk

  Tilden Swinton Like This by Etat Libre d'Orange (2010)
  yellow mandarin, ginger, pumpkin accord, immortelle, Moroccan neroli, rose de Grasse, vetiver, heliotrope, musk

 The Color Orange by DSH (Dawn Spencer Hurwitz) (2010)
 bitter orange, blood orange, petit grain, clementine, Italian neroli, orange blossom, osmanthus, sweet orange, tangerine, ambrette seed, musk, mryhh gum, patchouli, rosewood, Tagettes
 
 
Note: Photos of perfumes displayed are The Color Orange, Fruits de Noel Orange & Chocolat, Fleurs d'Oranger, Rubj Eau de Parfum
  






Bel Orage by Marlene Stang

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     Most people would rush inside when the roaring of thunder and the quick flash of lightning across the sky, but Marlene Stang, Senior Perfumer at Sarah Horowitz Parfums in Westlake Village, California welcomes the cause and effects of fragrances that linger in the air after a storm.

    This was the inspiration for Bel Orage. I know it looks like it should be orange but actually the name "Bel Orage" means "lovely storm" in French. Bel Orage is dedicated to the autumn  season and what better way then to create a crisp, earthy  parfum that is so elegant with rich and deep undertones.

    Ms. Stang has been a perfumer for almost nine years and with every passing day, she is enriched with more creative ideas that comes from the heart. I was humbled and delighted with her encounter with perfumer and owner, Sarah Horowitz-Thran. Her passion and blessed opportunity led Ms. Stang to start out as an apprentice to Ms. Horowitz-Thran and now as we know her, the senior perfumer.  



            













































































1. Did you decide on the fragrance notes first or the name of the eau de parfum first in order to create Bel Orage? The name "Bel Orage" means "lovely storm" in French, and while it was that charged, moody feel and scent that hangs in the air that inspired me from the get go, the selection of notes preceded the name. I chose cassis or red currant because its tart, festive smell reminds me of fall, while the fragrance's middle notes of red rose and fig are wild and earthy. Although roses really are more of a summer bloom, there is just something about its dark, velvety lushness that serves as the perfect "wet" counterpoint to the dryness of the fig here (which is so evocative, I feel, of dry leaves underfoot). Oud wood, sandalwood and a fresh, cold-smelling raw material called ambroxan form the base and really communicate, olfactively, an image of tangled tree trunks and the heavy, wet density in the air before the rain hits.




A. What do you want the female customer to come away with after experiencing Bel Orage? This fragrance is very anecdotal, and its really a love song to the quiet yet electric excitement of the hours leading up to that first autumnal storm. Excitement might not be what everyone feels on a day like that, but people who especially love this season will undestand what I aimed to achieve here, I think!

B. What size(s) and price for Bel Orage? Anyone interested in purchasing "Bel Orage" should visit the custom fragrances page on our website (www.sarahhorowitz.com). There we offer custom products ranging from shower gel, body lotion and massage oil to perfume oil and eau de parfum in a variety of sizes and prices. You can purchase Bel Orange in everything from a travel sized shower gel for $12 to a mini perfume oil or eau de parfum spray for your purse for $40 to a large size eau de parfum spray for your vanity for $100. Simply type "Bel Orage" next to the custom fragrance item you would like to purchase! Anyone interested in receiving a sample should call us toll-free at (888) 799-2060.

C. Where can Bel Orage be purchased? Bel Orage is exclusive to Sarah Horowitz Parfums.



2. I notice many new fragrance launches are always for the Fall. Do you know why this is? The holiday season (which officially begins the day after Thanksgiving in the retail world, otherwise known as "Black Friday") marks a time when more people shop than at any other time of year. They are buying gifts for others (as well as treating themselves from time to time!), and so it makes perfect sense to launch at this time.



3. What made you enter the fragrance industry as a perfumer? I am a lifelong perfume aficionado, and was already getting my tiny little hands to the perfume's on my mother's vanity by the time I was five. Almost nine years ago now I had the good fortune to meet niche perfumer Sarah Horowitz and begin training with her, and perfume has been my life ever since.



4. How did you get involve with Sarah Horowitz Parfum company? One Saturday, when Sarah was making an appearance at a Nordstrom near my home to promote our Perfumers Palette line, two dear friends of mine approached her and told her about me. I was on disability at the time and rethinking my goals, and what unfolded after their conversation with her was an offer for me to come up an assist with her production needs on the weekends. Shortly thereafter, her apprentice quit to pursue another career and she offered the position to me.

A. What do you like most about working with Sarah Horowitz Parfum company? I love the comaraderie and shared passion for perfumery that we experience and Sarah cultivates. I also love that we are a perfume house that holds customization at its heart. As a perfumer, this translates into a space where we create fragrance from a truly unfettered place, emphasizing individuality over such limiting considerations at trend analysis and fixation on appealing to the masses. Our customer is generally a very artistic free spirit who tends to think outside the scented box.



5. Marlene, will you continue to create fragrances with Sarah Horowitz Parfum company? Yes! I create custom fragrances on a daily basis for our bespoke clientele, and just debuted a tuberose concoction called "Belle Route" on indiescents.com as part of the Sarah Horowitz Parfums artisan collection. It also includes two fabulous and diverse offerings from Sarah called "Roots" and "Wings" that pay tribute to a poem her father used to read to her as a child.

A. Do you have any plans on creating your own line of fragrances? Hmmm.....that would be quite an endeavor, let me tell you, as so very much goes into the launch of a line that extends way beyond the task of developing fragrance itself! The road is long and I can't say for sure if a desire to do that will arise in my soul in the future, but my plate is happily pretty full at the moment!



6. Lastly, what advice would you give someone who wants to enter the perfume industry as a perfumer? I would say that it's important to research your options. The industry has changed greatly in the past twenty years, in no small part because of pioneers like Sarah, who have carved independent paths alongside the larger avenues governed by the big houses. An individual can approach the latter for formal training, or find a willing niche perfumer to train with. Which route they choose should depend, at least in part, on the type of work environment the individual prefers.


Top Notes: Cassis or red currant
Middle Notes: red rose, fig
Base Notes: oud wood, sandalwood ambroxan

Bel Orage Eau de Parfum is available exclusively at sarahhorowitz.com




Francis Kurkdijan-Master Perfumer

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     Mr. Francis Kurkdijian is highly respected in the world of perfumery. Kurkdijian did not come from generations of perfumers but at the age of 15 he knew that he wanted to become a perfumer. His talents and ambitions led him to created his first perfume, "Le Male" for Jean Paul Gaultier at the age of 25.

     Mr. Kurkdijian created fragrances for the fashion, beauty and luxury industries but several years later, he decided to open his own perfumery. In September 2009, Maison Francis Kurkdijian Paris was opened. He creates his own line of parfums, candles and other scented items.

   Mr. Kurkdijian is young and his vision is big but he is is on the verge of becoming the greatest perfumer of the 21st century and beyond.

Note: Photo of Francis Kurkdijian by piercemattiepublicrelations.com

About Elisabeth de Feydeau

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     For more information on Jean-Louis Fargeon, read the award winning book The Scented Palace: The Secret History of Marie Antoinette's Perfumer by Elisabeth de Feydeau. (UK: I.B. Tauris & Co. Ltd 2007)

    Elisabeth de Feydeau is a historian and professor at the Versailles School in Paris, France. During de Feydeau research for the book, she discovered the formula used to create Sillage de la Reine by Fargeon in 1790, the signature fragrance of Queen Marie Antoinette .

     During research on a book about Queen Marie-Antoinette's perfumer, Jean-Louis Fargeon, historian and professor Elisabeth de Feydeau stumbled upon a recipe from the archive of Fargeon which she discovered to be the signature scent of Marie-Antoinette known as Le Sillage de la Reine or "Wake of the Queen".

    After the discovery of this historical archive, de Feydeau contacted French perfumer, Francis Kurkdijian who worked with de Feydeau on the details of re-creating Le Sillage de la Reine. Kurdijian agreed to re-create the scent using the techniques and ingredients of Fargeon's day just to see if it could be done.

   According to records, it took Kurkdijian two years to work out the details and produce a scent of royal quality.
 
   Feydeau re-named the creation as M.A.(Marie-Antoinette) Sillage de la Reine.  Kurkdijian's re-creation is a mixture of jasmine, rose, iris, tuberose, lavender, musk, vanilla, ambergris, cedar, sandalwood and other essences.

  M.A. Sillage de la Reine is 100 percent natural and completed by Kurkdijian and de Feydeau in 2006. They both feel that it is something Queen Marie-Antoinette would have worn.

Note: The photo is of 25ml bottle of M.A. Sillage de la Reine

     Queen Marie-Antoinette was very found of her personal perfumer, Jean-Louis Fargeon. A young perfumer from Montpellier who came to Paris to seek his fortune and learn more about the perfume industry. Fargeon was very talented and his fragrances caught the eye of his life-long client of Marie Antoinette. He many, many perfumes but she wanted a fragrance that would be exclusively her own. A perfume that could not be worn by anyone else.

   Fargeon knew that the perfume had to lavish but something Marie-Antoinette would always be known for wearing as Queen of France. Fargeon created a scent that was known as a perfume for Marie Antoinette but it was better known as Sillage de la Reine which means "In the Wake of the Queen".

  Sillage de la Reine created in 1790 was made with natural materials that were customary during the 18th century. It is a strong floral fragrance with fragrance notes of rose, iris, jasmine, orange blossom and sandalwood, the favorite scents of Marie-Antoinette.

Note:  The photo is the re-creation of Sillage de la Reine by Francis Kurkdijan. The re-creation is was renamed as M.A Sillage de la Reine. 

Jean-Louis Fargeon, Perfumer

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     Jean-Louis Fargeon (1748-1806) was famous for being the personal perfumer to Queen Marie-Antoinette. Fargeon was a young Montpellier perfumer who arrived in Paris to learn more about the perfume trade. He came from a generation of perfumers and his natural talent became noticeable to a young queen who was known for a lavish lifestyle. 

   Queen Marie-Antoinette approached Fargeon and who created many fragrances for her from perfumes, sachets, beauty products and customized scented gloves. Fargeon was not only Marie-Antoinette's personal perfumer but he was a true and trusted friend. 

   Fargeon  used scents from the Queen's favorite flowers such as roses, violets, lilies and jonquils but there was one scent that the Queen always used and that was eau de fleur d'oranger

   Among all the perfumes that Fargeon prepared, Marie-Antoinette was most fond of Sillage de la Reine which means "In the Wake of the Queen". It was her signature scent that was created for her in 1790. Fargeon not only created fragrances for his beloved Queen and the royal court but to other royal families around Europe.

  Fargeon's perfumery took a turn for the worse when the French Revolution took place. He had to close his shop for business, but after the French Revolution was over and the French Monarch was no more to be seen, Fargeon opened a new perfumery in a different location and his perfumery became a success once more.

  Fargeon stayed faithful to Marie Antoinette during the French Revolution. Historical accounts indicate that Marie Antoinette was identified due to her signature scent while trying to flee Paris during the Reign of Terror.
  
Note: Picture is of Jean-Louis Fargeon by trianondelareina

      Marie Antoinette was thrust into a prestige position as Queen of France at the tender age of 14. Queen Marie Antoinette's birthday was on November 2nd, born in 1755 she would have been 255 years old!

     Marie Antoinette was best known not for her decisive decision making but for her passion for fashion and excessive spending habits. Among these lavish gifts to herself, she had many perfumes and scents created specifically for her.

     Unfortunately the Queen's lack of self control led to her demise with the assumption she purchased a multi diamond necklace by the court jewelers, Bohmer and Bassenge. Marie Antoinette died in 1793.

  
Note: The photo is of The International Perfume Museum in Grasse (France). Showing are vials, flask and Marie Antoinette's famous "necessaire".

Posted by Felicia M Hazzard 19 November, 2010 0 comments

The Outlaw Perfume Project

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   It gives me great pleasure to be one of the participating blogger for the Natural Perfumers Guild's Outlaw Perfume Project. This is my first year in the great quest of reviewing several fragrances by perfumers whom are thrilled to present their natural perfumes in their own artistic way.

   What is The Outlaw Perfume Project?  This project is created by the Natural Perfumers Guild's President, Anya McCoy whose talents includes writer, natural perfumer and perfumer educator of Anya McCoy's Anya's Garden Perfumes who is bringing attention to restrictions on perfumery ingredients imposed by the International Fragrance Association (IFRA) and European Union (EU) that have taken place within the last several years.

    Anya's Natural Perfumers Guild are allowing perfume creations that will go against these restrictions put upon natural perfumers by having perfumers create fragrance(s) that have ingredients in them that are prohibited by the IFRA and EU.
   Simply put, it is a why to say to big name manufactures, YOU ARE NOT NEEDED!
    So this will be a busy weekend for me. I will be sniffing,sniffing, sniffing and jotting down notes to my hearts content in order to  review several fragrances by accomplished natural perfumers. I look forward to this exciting journey and sharing my thoughts with you.

   During the first week of December, I will begin posting my reviews of these scents and I hope will look into natural perfumery... if this is your first time.  It is an ancient way of producing scents and these perfumers deserve our support, understanding, time and money. Let's keep this ancient art alive.

naturalperfumers.com
  

International Perfume Foundation

International Perfume Foundation
IPF Certified Natural Perfumery Media

House of Matriarch

House of Matriarch
"Nature is the Ultimate Luxury"

Esscentual Alchemy

Esscentual Alchemy
A Luxurious Natural Perfumery

ESXENCE: The Scent of Excellence

ESXENCE: The Scent of Excellence
ESXKIN: The Excellence of Beauty

Fragrance Belles-Lettres Est 2009 CHICAGO

The word "belles lettres" is a French phrase meaning "beautiful or "fine writing. Since this is a term to describe a category of writing, this will pertain to my passion about fragrances. I will review niche,natural, artisan and designer perfumes from all over the world. I write with passion but will use my journalistic skills that I obtained in college. Not only will I feature fragrances but I will feature new books on fragrances/perfumes, fragrance events and interview authors and perfumers.


I hope you take this journey with me and begin your own passion for the ART OF PERFUMERY!

Fragrance Belles-Lettres Magazine is a division of Noblesse Luxe Publication.


Felicia M. Hazzard
Publisher & Editor-in-Chief









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About Me

My photo

My passion for writing started as a child. Later, my passion for perfumery started as an older child. Now as an adult I write about both. As Founder & Editor-in-Chief of Fragrance Belles-Lettres Magazine I have the best of both worlds.

Writing and fragrances which gives me a beautiful writing combinations!

 Shortly, I will be introduces my first published book as an author.

Blog Archive

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Bourbon French Parfums
164 Years of Success

HOUSE OFBOURBON FRENCH PARFUMS

HOUSE OFBOURBON FRENCH PARFUMS
BOURBON FRENCH COLLECTION

Dress Coat White Marcella Waistcoat

Dress Coat White Marcella Waistcoat
Anderson & Sheppard Exclusive

The House of Anderson & Sheppard

The House of Anderson & Sheppard
A Place Of Elegance

Double-Breasted Navy Herringbone Overcoat

Double-Breasted Navy Herringbone Overcoat
Anderson & Sheppard Exclusive

Jacket Glen

Jacket Glen
Anderson & Sheppard Exclusive

Marguerite Acker

Marguerite Acker
Owner & Perfumer

Alessandra Crain

Alessandra Crain
Owner & Perfumer

Mary Eleftorea Behlar

Mary Eleftorea Behlar
Owner & Perfumer
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House Of Grossmith

House Of Grossmith
Three Exquisite Fragrances in Baccarat crystal perfume bottles

Marie Laveau

Marie Laveau
Voodoo Priestess

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Fragrant Florals of the South

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Bourbon French Collection

Bourbon French Collection
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Voodoo Love

Voodoo Love
The Fragrance for the Object of Affection

Florals-Southern,Favorites, Vintage & Exotic

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