Fragrance Belles-Lettres Magazine

Noblesse Luxe Publishing

EXCLUSIVE INTERVIEW


                                                            Tessa Williams
                                                  CULT PERFUMES
                                                  The Book & Exclusive Interview

        It gives me great pleasure to introduce a book that I admired since the first glance at its description while searching for book on fragrances that I may have missed.

       The title, CULT PERFUMES- The World's Most Exclusive Perfumeries published by MERRELL gave me goose bumps. It was intriguing and a little bit of a mystery to find out what perfumeries the author thought were exclusive.


      Tessa Williams is a journalist and has written for several well known publications such as Vogue, Marie Claire, Elle, The Times, just to name a few. I immediately assumed Ms. Williams knew what she is talking about because those publications only work with the best and most knowledgeable writers.

     I admire the extensive research done for this book and for Ms.Williams taking the time and expense to visit over 25 perfumeries to conduct interviews with the perfumers, and get a behind the scene look at these beloved perfumeries that have reached the noses and hearts of millions of people around the world.

    Not only is the research detailed by CULT PERFUMES offers beautiful photos of the perfumeries, the perfumes and of the perfumers. So, you get a package deal with this book.

   The layout and understanding of each perfumery in CULT PERFUMES is easy reading with details that gives historical background starting with Ancient Egypt to the master perfumeries of the twentieth and twenty-first centuries.

 If you are new to niche perfumery, Welcome...CULT PERFUMES-The World's Most Exclusive Perfumeries is a excellent place to start.

 I am deeply honored and privileged to have Tessa Williams, author of CULT PERFUMES-The World's Most Exclusive Perfumeries answer my questions about this beautifully orchestrated book of my most favorite fragrances.


                              THE INTERVIEW


1. Tessa, did you write Cult Perfumes: The World's Most Exclusive Perfumeries because you felt this type of book and subject matter is missing from the fragrance industry?


I wrote the book that I wanted to read and there is certainly no other book like this around about fragrances.

I’ve always been fascinated by perfume, even as a young girl, each scent I knew began to unravel a different story for me.

I wanted to write a book about perfume, and initially I had a different idea,

this was similar but slightly different and the publisher liked this so this was how the book evolved.


2. The book is so beautifully arranged. Did you arrange the layout of pictures and articles yourself or did you have help?
I was lucky to have worked with an amazingly talented team at Merrell.

My Editor there, Claire Chandler was a terrific help and the Art Director, Nicola Bailey

had this incredible artistic vision for a very beautiful book . Sadly they have now departed to

work at various other companies as the publishing company is no longer as diverse.

3. During your interviews with the perfumers, what would you say is the most common in terms of their passion for perfumery?

I came across undying passion amongst the perfumers that I met. The most uniting theme seemed to be that most people were creating their

unique and special perfumes for love of creation than from mere commercial desire to make something that sold in the wider sphere.


4. Tessa, how time consuming was it preparing to write CULT PERFUMES: The World's Most Exclusive Perfumeries?

The whole process probably took around 2 years -

The research was a wonderful journey for me, taking me to meet

such special perfumers all around the world, from the magical Serge Lutens in Paris to being present at the 400th anniversary party of Santa Maria Novella in Florence.

Whenever possible I made the journey to meet people personally as I wanted the book to reflect this authenticity and connect with the perfumers on a one to one basis.


 I did face to face interviews with many key fragrance creators, which took a lot of time, probably about a year , compiling them all and travelling to each place.

Roja Dove , a real character , Francis Kurkdjian, a fascinating and very likable Parisian, Jo Malone, a very business like and rather tough but friendly lady, Antonia Bellanca (creator of Antonia’s Flowers) wonderfully passionate and inspiring Italian/ American .

After months of travels and many telephone and Skype interviews

it then took hour upon hour of sitting writing on the computer, into the night and starting early in the morning.

I was lucky that my family , also writers and artists were especially encouraging to me at this time.

My father used to ask me every day how many words I had written - that really helped - Also working with a fantastic Editor who insisted on deadlines being met and would not allow for much procrastination. My daughter too was very helpful

and encouraging - she also has a great interest in perfumes, even though she is only 9 , she already has quite a collection of them!


5. What types of scents do you personally enjoy wearing?

I am a big fan of tuberose, I originally loved the Jo Malone Tuberose, now discontinued, I enjoy Fracas a lot by Robert Piguet, I also love Earl Grey Tea by Angela Flanders, I can’t ever say no to a bit of Chanel no 5 and I do also like Chanel No 19 Poudre, I really adore Santa Maria Novella’s Sicilia cologne, I love Oud too by Maison Francis Kurkdjian and I’m very fond of Eau d’Hadrien by Annick Goutal , Mitsouko by Guerlain and also I am a big fan of Epic Woman by Amouage.


6. What types of scents do you think are most popular among consumers in the niche market?
There seems to be a big surge in popularity for the Oud type of perfumes just now in the niche market perhaps influenced by middle east. Also rose scents seem popular just now too .

7. What have your learned from this experience in writing your first book?
It has been a really wonderful experience writing this first book and it has encouraged me to write more .

I am now working on three other books, another on perfume, another guide book on a different theme and a novel. There is a lot of satisfaction in having finished something, that the feeling of writing a book gives you

and also something tangible, in our internet dominated world it is sometimes quite refreshing to be able to hold something and turn the physical pages and be moved by a beautiful design on the page that goes with the writing.


8. What advice would you give to someone who wants to write a book?

Write it! Best advice .... do it and make sure you are writing about something you really LOVE! As writing is a very very tough and lonely occupation. However the opportunities, the rewards in kind and the people you will meet during the process will always be an unforgettable part of your life!

You could also write a best seller - You never know!

Make yourself a realistic deadline of when you can finish the book and set yourself a goal of writing so many words per day. Do it every day too, even if is just a few words, write something new every day. You can always go back and edit once you have written.

9. Lastly, how should consumers refer to your book such as a picture book, reference, coffee table book? 
Many people call it a Coffee Table book, I’m quite happy with that or a Reference Book - as I did not have much to do with the Photography I would not call it a Picture book, though it does have many beautiful images.

Many thanks Tessa and much continued success.


CULT PERFUMES
The World's Most Exclusive Perfumeries by Tessa Williams

Hardback with Jacket
192 pages
300 color illustrations
ISBN#978 1 8589 45774
UK 29.95
US 49.95
CAN 54.95

www.merrellpublishers.com


 A Special Thanks to Mr. Rob Moore (US Publicity) for sending me the book, CULT PERFUMES-The World's Most Exclusive Perfumeries to me and for allowing me to get my questions answered by Ms. Williams.


Photos: Photo of Ms. Williams courtesy of Merrell Publishers and photo of book cover courtesy of Merrell Publishers/Google images










FMH





  
  

Noblesse Luxe Publishing

FRAGRANCE NEWS REPORT

         It's Over for Third-Party Vendors at HENRI BENDEL

 It was reported over a month ago that HENRI BENDEL Fifth Avenue flagship store will no longer do business with third-party vendors.

 This came to a shocking surprise to many HENRI BENDEL loyal customers who shop their for beauty products that come from all over the world.

 Apparently HENRI BENDEL wants to put the spotlight on their own named brands which are handbags, fashion accessories, fashion jewelry, cosmetics, travel accessories, leather goods, hair goods and home fragrances.

 HENRI BENDEL flagship store was the icing on the cake for niche fragrances. It gave them an opportunity to be taken very seriously in a well established retail store on the most fashionable and iconic address of Fifth Avenue.

Wow what a shame, I thought the diversity was what set themselves apart. Do you think customers purchased more third-party vendor products than the HENRI BENDEL brand?

 My hat goes off to the third party vendors who made it on the shelves in HENRI BENDEL .I'm sure  they had to prove themselves quite a bit but as with anything in life, it is time to move on.

 I know of some very fine niche fragrance and beauty retailers in New York and perhaps they will seek this opportunity and approach these perfumeries such as Aftelier, Aroma M, Teo Cabanel, Memorie Liquide and others and offer them space on their shelves.

 If you are involved in the niche fragrance industry, it is our duty to help expand and find creative ways of exposing the true art of perfumery whenever it is needed.

 I can remember when HENRI BENDEL was first established in Chicago at 900 North Michigan Avenue. I remember the increasingly amounts of third-party vendors at this store. Due to the diversity of products and such unique jewelry is why I applied and got a HENRI BENDEL credit card.

 It is here where I first encountered the entire collection of Annick Goutal fragrances, MAC Cosmetics and the first HENRI BENDEL fragrance that I truly loved.

For all of you who shopped at HENRI BENDEL NYC, will you continue to shop there for HENRI BENDEL merchandise? Or, did you go there just for the third-party vendor products?


 Note: I heard the news from FASHION TIMES. An online fashion magazine based in New York.


 Photo: Photo of Henri Bendel taken from Google/www.blog.mallofamerica.com













FMH

Noblesse Luxe Publishing

Fragrance News

          CHANDLER BURR flourishes with New Fragrance Book

Chandler Burr

 Noblesse Luxe Publishing

 FRAGRANCE REVIEW


                BEAUTY ELIXIR OIL
                     A Scent of Beauty and Uplifting of the Spirit

   Occasionally I review fragrances that are not perfumes. I plan on doing more of these types of reviews because it all belongs underneath the same umbrella of beauty products that enhances the perfume which of course is applied to the skin.

   I was sent a wonderful deluxe size sample of BEAUTY ELIXIR OIL for Hair and Body by Providence Perfume Company owner and natural perfumer, Charna Ethier.

  It has been several months to a year that I became ill and I was eager to find more uplifting fragrances that would not only enhance my skin but also to boost my spirit.

 The moment I opened my bottle of BEAUTY ELIXIR OIL I immediately found renewed strength.

 I applied the BEAUTY ELIXIR OIL to my hair and messaged it in my manicured nails and toes for at least 7-8 days and I could see the difference in my hair texture.

 This to me was the greatest positive message in a bottle because I was on several medications and there are certain side effects from them. Next, I noticed my nails became less brittle and my cuticles softer and my nail polish applications on my nails and toes seemed brighter in color and lasted longer.

 Wow, I thought to myself, Charna has sent me the fountain of youth. Beauty and an elixir that does wonders in such a short amount of time.

 Now, I just told you the benefits of BEAUTY ELIXIR OIL for hands and nail by Providence Perfume Company but wait until I tell you about the scent!


Charna Ethier

 OMG! its that orange blossom and jasmine that are simply beautiful in this product. Orange is known for its zest and for uplifting and it did just that. Blended with the other natural scents that gives this BEAUTY ELIXIR OIL a unique and special quality.

 I recently watched Charna on YOUTUBE conducting a tutorial of fragrance making. Charna mentioned that jasmine is her most favorite scent. This to me made this BEAUTY ELIXIR OIL more personal and special because it is composed with jasmine and since its a personal favorite scent of Charna, I can see why it was handled and blended especially well.

 I felt like I was in an open field of oranges, flowers and a wealth of exotic and creamy leaves that left the scent on my skin for more than 8 hours.

 Underneath is the scent of neroli and dash of apricot that gives a true meaning of luxury at its finest. My skin was smooth, highly scented and had a sheen that highlighted my skin tone without a greasy after feel.



Madame Dumas

What was also sent with the BEAUTY ELIXIR OIL was a brochure with Charna's beautiful great grandmother Madam Dumas ( pictured). This not just any beauty oil but there is a family heritage and a century old secret formula for beautiful hair, skin and nails. Charna's creation of this natural treatment is dedicated to Madam Dumas of French heritage who had an impeccable beauty routine using her handmade creations that inspired Charna to do the same.

 I see why Charna's skin is so beautiful and flawless. It is not only just about having good genes but maintaining the hair, nails and skin with a high quality beauty treatment such as BEAUTY ELIXIR OIL that keeps you looking
good from head to toe.

Now that is the true essence of BEAUTY ELIXIR OIL.



 RETAIL INFORMATION:

 BEAUTY ELIXIR OIL FOR HAIR & NAILS  $44.00   

 BEAUTY ELIXIR SAMPLE $12.00


 Visit the flagship boutique!
   

  301 Wickenden Street
 Providence, Rhode Island 02903   USA
 (401)-455-2325

 www.providenceperfume.com



 
 


PHOTO: Photos of Beauty Elixir Oil, Charna Ethier and Madame Dumas courtesy of Providence Perfume Company






FMH

Noblesse Luxe Publishing

FRAGRANCE REVIEW


                           CUIR DE GARDENIA
                                   The creation of a modern island flower
   

I  will always appreciate the classic scents of  fragrances that represents a single note such as the rose, jasmine, gardenia, marigold and a host of others. My curiosity and passion for perfumes always peaks to another level when a perfumer takes a single note scent and creatively combines, adds, renew this component with other scents that makes its own unique a newly created scent.

  CUIR DE GARDENIA by Aftelier Perfumes is based on the Tahitian Gardenia, the home flower that represents the South Seas...Tahiti to be exact.

  The Tahitian Gardenia is found only in the South Pacific which makes the island of Tahiti a gem where this gorgeous scented flower is grown.

  The "tiare" flower is another name for Tahitian flower and this scent is one of those that hold a soft place in my heart. When I was a child and my passion for scents started to flourish, the tiare flower scented perfumes became my favorites.

CUIR DE GARDENIA is beautifully transformed into Mandy Aftel's ideal of the Tahitian Gardenia.
There are certain aspects of this flower that Mandy maintains such as the creamy sweetness of this milky white flower. However, CUIR DE GARDENIA has a hint of woodsy musk that provides a modern flair to an ancient flower.

Mandy provided me with the liquid and solid formulas for my review and I wore both of these over several weeks.I was immediately transformed into a luscious oasis miles away. Cuir De Gardenia is not what you think in terms of the major island brand Monoi for the tiare flower but Cuir De Gardenia is a flair of a Tahitian flower for the modern age that finds a woodsy essence a true delight of blended notes what truly gravitates my vision of the exotic tropics.
formula. To me, the Solid version of Cuir De Gardenia became my passionate friend over those weeks because it worked best with my body chemistry and the texture was soft and smooth as I mildly rubbed it on my wrists.

The tiare scented perfumes I have smelled always consisted of a coconut oil enfleurage. Mandy did not add this ingredient, instead she created it with tiare (gardenia) absolute and honey (these are not the only ingredients) but to me the honey  is a welcoming change to the usual coconut.It gives a added delicate aspect to CUIR DE GARDENIA, which is a rare and beautiful component.

As I stated, I love the diversity in perfumes that take the old and renew it with a new and often times improved scent. However, it has to be done carefully because a lot of people at not conditioned for change.

The immediate scent of gardenia is a rush of endless streams of the flower and cascading jasmine to continue an epic of white flowers so I really don't see any problems in experiencing Cuir De Gardenia because she realizes that working with nature is best. 

 I admire the modern complexity of this fragrance. 'The Art of Perfumery' never stops admitting that there is always more to come and Mandy definitely demonstrates this in her ever quest to continue beautifying this art.


FEATURED NOTES

Middle Notes : tiare (gardenia) absolute, jasmine grandiflorum absolute, benzyl acetate
Base Notes: castoreum, ethyl phenyl acetate, maltol

RETAIL INFORMATION

Cuir de Gardenia comes in various liquid and a solid sizes.

Sample 0.25ml  $6.00 USD
1/4 ounce liquid (extrait)  $195.00 USD
Extrait mini  $55.00 USD
Eau de Parfum Spray $195.00 USD
Solid 1/4 ounce $240.00 USD

* The lovely compact is designed by Mandy Aftel from handmade one ounce sterling silver. It comes presented in a choice of orange or purple silk pouch.

www.aftelier.com


Photo: Courtesy of Aftelier Perfumes USA Berkeley, California













FMH

Noblesse Luxe Publishing

FRAGRANCE ARTICLE



                  WORLD MACARON DAY
                               A Collaboration of Scents

    On Thursday, March 20th of each year marks the celebration of WORLD MACARON DAY.  This sweet and slightly crunchy cookie as taken the world by storm with its delicate and delightful features with its array of festive bright colors that correspond with the flavors.

    According to the luxury blog, Luxuo (article dated March 20, 2014) WORLD MACARON DAY started out as a gimmick and fundraising event by Pierre Herme'.

   Pierre Herme' known as the French "Picasso" of pastries decided to showcase international spotlight on the macaroon because it was still a novelty in bakeries outside of France. So on March 20 WORLD MACARON DAY is celebrated intensely in cities worldwide such as New York, Mumbai, Toronto and Vancouver.

  The macaroon a richly submerged meringue-based pastry that has become common in most parts of the world...give or take their own cultural interpretation of the pastry.

  Where does this involve perfume? Well, a few months ago, the world's foremost creator of the macaron, LADUREE headquartered in Paris have collaborated with Nina Ricci, fashion designer extraordinaire to create a new fragrance named La tentation de Nina.

   Olivier Cresp, Fashion Director at Nina Ricci and Vincent Lemains, Head of Pastry design for Laduree have sweetened the deal by collaborating on the macaroon flavored fragrance by creating notes of lemon, rose, almond and raspberry.

  The bottle is breathless with the Nina Ricci iconic apple-shaped bottle that features bold pink and gold tones that sparkle with the effervescent of a modern fragrance designed with the French pastry as the core.

  La tentation de Nina is available in a 50 ml/1.7 fluid ounce apple-shaped bottle for 58 Euros.
   
  Launched January 20, 2014.

 
  Sources: www.luxuo.com; www.vogue.fr.com
  Photos: www.fragrantica.com; www.vogue.fr.com






 FMH



 

   

Noblesse Luxe Publishing

FRAGRANCE REVIEW


                                                                      MENELIK
                                       The elegant arrival from South Africa

               The continent of Africa is vast. It is home to the world's finest natural resources and to find that there is a new world class perfumery in South Africa gives me much excitement.

              MENELIK Pour Homme, is a new fragrance created in Johannesburg, South African, Mr. Lionel Shaw.

              "The inspiration behind the scent is ancient kingdoms, golden deserts and luscious fruits which are considered rare treasures in Africa".

              Not only is this scent created in Johannesburg but it is indeed a rarity that it is a scent for men which is not commonly produced as of yet but I am very sure this will change since MENELIK has been launched and getting rave reviews.

              MENELIK is the scent for the modern gentlemen and the logo graciously shows a wonderful tailored black suit, white shirt and a black form-fitting tie.

              I was curious about the suit image which gives it away that it must be a scent for men but as I learn more about Mr. Shaw, I believe I know why the strong presence of a suit is of most importance.

             MENELIK Pour Homme is considered to be a woody-spicy scent. My observation of this beautifully created scent by nose Shaw gives new meaning to typical heavy laden spicy scents for men.

           I wore it for several weeks and I love the energy I get from it. It is not a heavy scent at all and to me women could easily get away with wearing it without determining its male characteristics.

          It is simply embraceable and fresh and clear as the tall distinguished mountains in South Africa.

         MENELIK is soft...but firm and the scent fits the role of the modern gentlemen in any career capacity from behind the desk as a CEO to a professor of English at a university.

Lionel Menelik

         The black tailored suit, the image of MENELIK, gives indication that Mr. Shaw talents are not just as a perfumer. He is a former fashion model! So, that would be the reason I suppose he choose the black suit. Mr. Shaw is a young man who has an extremely bright future and his talents continues because Mr. Shaw is also a photographer.

      Mr. Shaw continues to use his talents by presenting MENELIK Pour Homme in a unique 100 ml glass pyramid flacon that arrives in a lacquered black and gold created box.

    What a true presentation of this African made scent. The pyramids are home to North Africa. So, Mr. Shaw not only provides a great scent but it comes with a history lesson, too. That lesson is the name Menelik which may sound familiar to the history buffs out there gives homage to Menelik I, proclaimed to be a descendant of the legendary Queen of Sheba and King Solomon.

   MENELIK Pour Homme is a true treasure and a discovery that I find such a rarity among scents.

   MENELIK Pour Homme was launched in 2012

   Top Notes: ruby mandarin, basil, orange, grapefruit, peppermint
    Middle Notes: rose absolute, cinnamon tobacco, carnation
   Base Notes: cedarwoods, patchouli, amber, blond leather


  Information: To Purchase: sales@menelikfragrance.co.za

  Photos: www.menelikfragrance.co.za/Frangrantica.com